After a flood in 1957, Valencia diverted the river Turia around the city. The dry riverbed became the Jardí del Túria, a park that curves for about nine kilometres through the centre — the easiest way to get anywhere.
Day 1 — the old town
Start at the Mercado Central, one of the largest covered markets in Europe, then cross to La Lonja, the Gothic silk exchange on the UNESCO list. Walk to the cathedral — it claims to hold the Holy Grail — and the Plaza de la Virgen. Get lost in El Carmen in the evening.
Day 2 — the Turia by bike
Rent a bike and ride the Turia from end to end. At the eastern end is the City of Arts and Sciences, Santiago Calatrava's white complex; the buildings are free to look at, the museums are ticketed. Ride back through the park.
Day 3 — Cabanyal and the beach
Take the tram or metro to El Cabanyal, the old fishermen's quarter with tiled house fronts, and walk to Malvarrosa beach. Eat on the seafront. In the evening, go to Ruzafa, the neighbourhood with the most restaurants per street.
Day 4 — the Albufera
Take EMT bus 25 south to the Albufera natural park, a freshwater lagoon among rice fields; check that the bus is signed El Palmar, not El Perellonet. In El Palmar, take a short boat ride on the lagoon and eat paella valenciana — made with rabbit and chicken, not seafood — for lunch. Stay for sunset over the water if you can.
Day 5 — horchata and a slow morning
Go north to Alboraya for horchata (a tiger-nut drink) with fartons. Keep the rest of the day free.
When to go
Spring and autumn. Las Fallas, in mid-March, fills the city with giant satirical sculptures that are burned on the last night — spectacular, but book months ahead. July and August are hot and humid.